Into Galicia, land of Pulpo and all things Celtic, to O'Cebreiro (Fr 4 Oct)

We had a good stay at our albergue -- only 6 in our room and everyone agreed to have the window open and were very respectful in the morning, packing up and leaving quietly.  Nice albergue with a big eating and sitting area.  And an especially diverse group: a couple from Hungary who made soup to share, a man from Czech Republic, three lads from Brazil (who asked if there's anyone left in Canada (still haven't figured out why there are so many Canadians on the Camino) and two Belgian cousins (Bernard and Jan) we had dinner with later on.  (I'm not listing the common U.S., Germany, France, Spain, Korea etc).

Conversation over dinner was wide ranging, each learning about the other's country and traditions.  Here, Jan and Jan enjoy sharing a great pot of traditional, hearty vegetable soup:

We talked about the Great War (will be 100th anniversary celebrations in Belgium next year), Christmas traditions, bears, art (Jan is a retired art teacher, but his passion is music -- saxophone), influx of immigrants into our countries, storks, the illustrated graphic novel Maus (that we must read), beers, and so on.  Nice evening.

Here's a pic of cousins Jan and Bernard from today:

One young woman we've stayed with a couple times has confirmed she has bed bug bites. We knew they were out there.  We're not so worried if they strike us.  Not much worse than mosquito bites.   Just a bit harder to swat.  

Today was a misty morning, and we started our walk at the bottom of a narrow valley and, after fueling up at a panaderia (bakery that also serves coffee) up we went for the last big climb of the Camino, made special because we enter Galicia.  Galicia is a Celtic region, like Ireland, Scotland.  They play Celtic music, accordions, tin flutes, even bagpipes.  The specialty food?  Pulpo or octopus.  Haven't tried it yet, but every restaurant has a Pulpo sign:

 Jan's leg is much better so we've pretty much resumed normal walking and climbing speed and it feels real good to work hard up the long climbs.  For a while, we walked alongside the old highway that is very little used since they built the new expressway, complete with tunnels and bridges high up over the valley:

Cows grazing bottom right, with cow bells clanging, seemed to be oblivious to the beauty around them.  I imagine thought bubbles "just another day in paradise".

The climb is notoriously tough, so many send their packs ahead by taxi for 6 or 7 Euro.  And the   horses in this field were for hire -- for you and your bags.  Only two in the corral, so we hoped to see some on the trail, but only saw their droppings:

Up we go:

Great views looking back down the valley:

This picture taken right on the border of Galicia.  Three groups took turns taking pictures of each other:

Finally at the top, we enter the tiny mountain village of O'Cerbrerio population 50, with likely 150-200 staying the night, and another couple hundred stopping for lunch:

The only albergue in town didn't open for an hour and a half so we treated ourselves to a private room at this little place.  Our tiny window, just big enough to poke our head through, is just under the slate roof on the left,  The kitchen and owner's living quarters are under the thatched roof:

A couple buildings up from ours is the central hub of the village, busy with pilgrims and tourists:

Couldn't resist a pic of this pooch, with flying nun ears:

Third or fourth day we've stayed in the same town as Rebecca, from Australia.  She started her Camino just a week ago, in Astorga:

Our lunch spot.  Eggs, bacon and fries.  Yum!   Jan waiting to pay:

The late afternoon light, looking back down the valley we'd hiked up today: