Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Up into the mountains we go (to Foncebadon, Mo 30 Sep)

A couple more shots of our albergue in Astorga.

  View from the back patio:

Leaving through the front door:

Today, we left in the fog -- nice and cool for walking:


Gradually the fog lifted and it was another perfect day:


We climbed steadily throughout the day, through some almost abandoned villages, with many thatched-roof buildings in disrepair:

We've walked over 500 km so far and are within two weeks of finishing.  We've been discussing thoughts of what next.  One of the common lessons from the Camino, after living out of your backpack for a month or so is that you need very little to be happy.  People are often inspired to downsize and live a simpler life.  We already live a pretty simple life, and have decluttered over the past couple years.  Ironically, though, thoughts of buying more stuff have entered our discussions during our walk.  We really enjoyed hiking in the mountains this summer, to get ready for the Camino, and we thought that we'd get back into the mountains this winter when we return, to do some cross country skiing.  Our car is ancient (18 years old and not great in the snow), so we've pretty much decided it's time for a newer vehicle, probably a 4x4, to get us safely up into the snow.  We've only owned 3 vehicles in our 37 years together, so perhaps it is time.

And, on a roll, I brought up the idea of a sailboat.  Always liked the idea of wind-powered travel.  Would go well with the idea to move to the Gulf Islands... Ten minutes after talking about a sailboat, we catch up to a guy, who turns out to be a Dutch fellow who's lived in the prairies (landlocked Saskatoon, Saskatchewan) for 35 years.  His passion?  Sailing.  He sails a 27 ft C&C (diesel engine) on Lake Diefenbaker. So we walked and talked with Jakobus, and learned a lot about sailing, his life in Canada, his philosophy around tourists vs pilgrims on the trail, etc,  Here's Jakobus:

A little more climbing ...


... and we reach our destination for the day, Foncebadon.  No, this is not the albergue, but the next door neighbour.  Very rustic village.  

This is our albergue.  Recommended on the Camino forum.  Vegetarian, funky, yoga classes in the morning...

We got a choice of bunks on the first level or mattresses in the attic.  We chose mattresses on the floor in the far corner:

One of the volunteers (Italian) having his lunch, while one of the two resident goats searches for crumbs:

Herd of shaggy cows grazes nearby -- a salt lick is the attraction for those clustering together:

We had lunch with Erin (Korean name Heian), who studied in Toronto, and speaks English so well it's hard to imagine it's not her mother tongue.  At 29, she's the same age as our own dauhter, Kristen.  She's not lived in S. Korea since she was 18, only visited a few times.  Real nice young woman:

That evening, we had an outstanding dinner, with the highlight being the paella.  We shared a table with Susan (Nova Scotia), Erin (s. Korea), and these three pictured: Jean-Claude (France) who spoke no English, and Marlice and Simone from Germany, part of an 11-person Church group, mostly Lutheran, walking together.  We stayed with the same group 2 nights ago.  They are all sleeping out in the yoga room, pretty much out in the open with just a small fence separating them from the goats, chickens and rabbits.

Giant paella pan -- it was excellent!

As I write this, lying on my comfy mattress in the attic,  belly full of paella, we can hear the rain pouring down on the roof and the skylights.  Wonderful sound to fall asleep to.  (Not a great sound to wake up to.). But whatever, I know tomorrow will be another great day.

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