Logrono (Fri 13 Sep '13)

Today we bade farewell to the quaint and quiet Casa Mari in sleepy Torres del Rio and walked to the biggest town we've stayed in so far, Logrono.  It's a recommended stopping point in our Brierley guidebook, which means it's going to be busy and packed.  It's 20 km away, and not much in between here and Logrono and the next town after Logrono is another 12 km and neither of us want to walk that far.

A little overcast and cool to start, so great for walking, then it got sunny and heated up.  

Sun lightening up the horizon:

... then shining on closer hills:

... and finally shining on us.  No better feeling than the first warmth of the sun on a cool morning.

Nice view over a valley to the south:

I've always been drawn to patterns, and Spanish farmers seem to have a special knack:

More knack:

Grapes struggling in the rocky soil, or perhaps all the stones added for mulch?

Several enterprising people set up stands along the Camino, selling coffee, drinks, snacks.  This guy, in the middle of nowhere, had a sign saying he needs a home:

Pretty impressive foot and bicycle bridge over the freeway, built specifically for the Camino:

By mid-morning, it was pretty hot with very little shade along the route.  This pine grove provided a nice respite, and the aroma was wonderful:

Snails cluster together on the stalks of 2 or 3 varieties of plants.  Quite the traffic jam.  Perhaps the only bit of moisture they could find.

At long last, we reach Logrono.  And what better way for a city to welcome footsore pilgrims than a specially built Camino foot bath in a long fountain!  Quite cold and it made our feet feel sooo happy.

Note the scallop shell symbol in the tile work:

Just a short walk from the fountain to the 68-bed municipal Albergue that opens at 1 pm.  We arrived about noon and joined the line.  Like many, we inadvertently placed our bag at the front of the queue (closest to the camera) and were quickly told so...

The doors opened a half hour early and we took seats in the courtyard, just through the gates, where we waited in comfort.  Tom from England in the foreground. We'd spent the previous night with him in Torres del Rio. Sadly, the next morning, he could only find one of his two trekking poles he's clutching -- one disappeared overnight.  He vowed to use his remaining one to skewer whoever pilfered his.  Also,  my trusty hat disappeared, but I was sitting on it as we waited outside the gate, so may have left it there.  

This albergue is also staffed by volunteers, so I was expecting a cheerful welcome.  Surprisingly, no.  We got an ice cold reception and military precision.  No smiles.  Just one word commands: "Passport".  "Credencials". "Catorce". (Which means 14 -that's how much it cost for two people). Then they hand you a disposable sheet and pillow case inside a plastic envelope with your assigned bed and room number in felt pen.  We were assigned A-23 and A-24.  The last two beds in room A.  When we got there we couldn't even get to our beds because the bunks barely fit in the room and the space between them only left room for one person.  Room is so cramped it was hard to get a decent pic:

Beds were very comfy and Jan gave me the bottom bunk so I'd have easier access to the toilet (sigh), but I'm actually feeling much, much better and slept well.  With so many people crammed into a small room, I like to be by the window for some fresh air.  Our bunk was in the corner and people beside both windows shut them.  I asked if they'd open it for air, but got a simple "no" and from another "it's too cold".  During the night I went over and opened them a crack, and opened the door as well, but it was still very warm and stanky in the room.  

Lying awake this morning, I was thinking about the unique social environment of the Camino.  I think another lesson learned is ... Tolerance.