San Nicholas

Jan found an entry in the guide book that sounded irresistable (in a restored 12th century original pilgrim hostal, no electricity, candlelight, only 12 beds, shared dinner and breakfast, donativo (pay what you can) so we set our target for Ermita de San Nicholas.  When we arrived just before noon, we were delighted they still had beds, and we've been basking in the place since.

The walk to get here was extraordinary.  The Meseta consists of a plateau through which rivers flow. Over the years, they've carved deep canyons and valleys, so it makes for some challenging ups and downs and gorgeous vistas.  The town in the pic below is Castrojeriz, with one of the many castles (castillas), built on the tops of hills, that give this region it's name ( Castillas y Leon):

Looking across the valley:

More valley:

Spain, a contrast of old and new:

Almost finished our climb out of the valley, looking back towards our start point for the day, near the horizon:

And across to the far side of the valley. Temperature's up in the high 20s, forecasts for 30 or more, but the steady and predictable winds that are the reason for building so many wind turbines in this area, helped keep us cool:

And, after a nice walk of 20 km, we reach the albergue.  The albergue is out in the country, a couple km from the nearest village, surrounded by farmer's fields, just across a clear river and old stone bridge:

The old stone building lay in crumbles, until 1991, when a professor from Italy decided to make it his project to restore the former albergue to be livable again.  He recruited Italian volunteers and donations and a few years later, the albergue opened, with a new roof, repaired stonework and a new interior:

Staffed entirely by volunteers from Italy, they tend the garden, (huge herb garden, incl. oregano, Rosemary, grape vines, roses).  And they cook.  Italians cooking Italian food using fresh herbs from the garden.  The aroma was mesmerizing, filling the interior and wafting outside.

Inside, just one large room, with an altar at the far end, eating area down the middle and ...

Bunks at the other end.  A small loft up the stairs has three more beds:

Santiago (Saint James):

Main/only entrance, right on the Camino, so every pilgrim walks right by:

The bell that's rung for evening and morning prayer:

Famina, who is also an Italian volunteer:

Darlene and Elisabeth:

Jan and Emily:

Dinner was served at 8, and at 7:30 a special service was held around the altar, that included washing of all pilgrims' feet, (all 12 of us, the capacity of the albergue, a number chosen with intention) followed by the Lord's Prayer spoken in unison, in each of our native languages.  Powerful.

Three of the four Italian volunteer hospitaleros, donning the garb for the washing of the feet and prayer:

The most simple, sublime, tasty dinner we've had so far, served by candlelight with the setting sun adding colour through the window and open door. Primero: pasta in that heavenly tomato sauce that had been bubbling on the stove, come alive with sprigs of fresh picked oregano.  Segundo: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and potatoes baked in rosemary and oil.  So good.  And finally, a cup of fresh fruit, including grapes from their vine.  Wow.  Wow.  Such flavours; such generosity.   And most pilgrim meals are void of veggies and fruit, so a special treat:

Then as the sun set and only candlelight to light this great stone building, one of the volunteers brought out a guitar and it so happened that the last of the pilgrims to arrive was a talented guitarist, so he played while people gradually turned in.  Then, one by one the candles were doused and our volunteers left, leaving us in darkness.

In the morning, we shared a simple breakfast at 7, also by candlelight, then we all gathered outside in the dawn for a prayer and hugs from our hosts.   

And, then we were off, filled with love, ready for another walk through paradise.  San Nicholas was ertainly a highlight of our Camino.