The first part of this post is about Larry's lingering illness. He's almost back to normal, so feel free to skip the medical details and go here ---->
Larry's symptoms (fever, stomach cramps, weakness, diarrhea) mostly disappeared after 2 or 3 days, and we've been able to resume our normal walking distance, EXCEPT, the diarrhea has persisted for about 7 or 8 days. He's tried water only, then graduated to white rice and packaged melba toasts and water. Still happening. So, finally, yesterday he walked into a Farmacia and explained to the English speaking pharmacist what's going on and she was very nice saying he just needed to return to more normal eating. Hurray! So, he dug into last night's meal, (the one we'd prepared as a group, starting with the mixed salad and bread -- so tasty! And then a great main of lentils, rice etc. Larry bolted before finishing his plate. Fortunately, he had taken a chair that allowed him to get away, as most of the diners were wedged around the outside of the room with no easy way to get out.
OK, so next morning we decide it's time to see a Doctor. Larry translated all his symptoms into Spanish, using the iPad in case the Dr didn't speak English. Only thing he forgot is how to ask for a doctor. We were imaging walking up to a local or albergue and if they didnt't speak English all he could say is: "I have diarrhea". Fortunately we caught up to two folks we know very well, Ramon and Maria, from Mexico and he told us how to ask for a doctor and Maria offered to accompany us if we wanted.
When we arrived in the first decent sized town that might have a doctor, we noticed a sign saying "Medical Centre", so we walked over and it looked like a regular hospital, and we walked into what we think was an urgent care dept, with quite a few people milling about.
Larry used his "I need to see a doctor" and she asked for his passport, gave me a couple forms to fill in with a sheet translating many of the terms into multiple languages (lots of pilgrims use this centre), When he handed it back she gave him a small piece of paper that looked like a bill, but turned out to be the name of the doctor he'd see and the time he should be at her door: 11:45, about an hour from now. Very cool!
When the time arrived, she called Larry in. She spoke almost no English, but was delighted to see the Spanish symptoms on the iPad. They had a kind of a dialog for a few minutes and then she gave him a sheet of paper listing what he should eat and avoid, in Spanish. At the top of the list: white rice. Basically, keep the bland diet till the symptoms are gone. And the cost to see the doctor? Nada! (Later footnote: when we returned home to Canada, we received a bill for 73 Euros, which we paid and this was reimbursed by our insurance company).
So that's what he's doing. And for the past 36 hours, no symptoms. Yahoo! He's planning to graduate to some more regular food tomorrow.
------> Leaving Ganon: the church where we stayed and went to mass:
Morning sky. We walk almost due west each day, so we have to remember to look back to catch the early morning sky:
One of many interesting old houses, still standing partly because they are wedged between two sturdier houses:
Common style of bell tower in these parts:
Another Parochial Albergue, associated with the Franciscans. About twenty in line when the doors opened at 1 pm. When we learned there would be a communal meal tonight, and no market in town, we moved on, since Larry still needed to cook his own meal:
Caves in the rocks around here: some natural, some made by humans:
Alas, we had to walk along this highway for a few kms to reach the next town, Nice dirt path along the roadside:
Our 60 bed albergue, split into two rooms. Nice kitchen, showers, etc and a market next door. What isn't shown is that a steady stream of transport trucks roared by the front all night long. And our dorm was overlooking the road. But our comfortable bunks (compared to mats on a floor) and earplugs made for a blissful sleep:
We picked up supplies for dinner at the market and cooked them in the kitchen. The kitchen and eating area is a great place to meet new people and reconnect with others. We saw Laurie again -- hasn't seen her in a week. She told us yesterday was a real low point for her, both physically and emotionally - she almost sat down and cried. She's realized that she's not going to be able to walk all the way to Santiago, in any kind of reasonable time. So, like others, she's decided to modify her dream and take the bus over some stretches. After dinner, Larry went for a walk about town and Laurie and I stayed behind and had a little party: 2 cans of beer, a bag of chips and a good chat.
There are no right or wrong ways to do the Camino.
Church in the town of Villafranca de Montes de Oca:
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